Unrushed Waterford: A guide to the Crystal County

With its beautiful Georgian architecture, lively food scene and a whole host of exciting activities on its doorstep, the port city of Waterford is packed with character, charm and “craic”. This is a place where the Vikings once roamed, where history makes its presence felt in medieval landmarks such as Reginald’s Tower, and where one of the world’s most famous cut glass brands – Waterford Crystal – originated in the 18th century.  

It takes only 2 hours to get to Waterford by EV from Dublin, with several providers such as Hertz and Avis offering electric vehicle options. On the drive, you’ll traverse the landscapes of Ireland’s Ancient East. The scenic journey will bring you past sheep-dotted fields, over rivers and into the heart of the city.  

Once there, take some time to enjoy the best Waterford has to offer before heading deep into the countryside to explore spectacular coastal landscapes, scenic towns and villages, and one of the greatest cycling routes on the island of Ireland.  

Get to know the city 

History infuses every aspect of Waterford’s notably walkable and compact centre, and strolling its streets is a great way to get to know it. “[Waterford] invites people to pause, walk, listen, and truly engage with its rich maritime, cultural, and environmental heritage”, says Edel Tobin of Street Art Ink, which runs bespoke walking tours of the city.  

Waterford was originally established by the Vikings, and you can enjoy over 1,000 years of history in the Waterford Treasures collection of seven museums. Learn about Irish wake rituals in what was once a 15th-century Almshouse in the Irish Wake Museum, and discover a real-life Bridgerton at Bishop’s Palace. With a Freedom of Waterford pass, you can enjoy access to five of these museums as well as a guided walking tour of the Viking Triangle (Waterford city’s “old town”).  

One of Waterford’s major claims to fame is its world-class luxury crystal. Head to the  House of Waterford Crystal for an in-depth look at the processes required to turn molten crystal into timeless pieces of art. If you find that inspiring, then pop into Kite Design Studios opposite Christ Church Cathedral and enjoy some more handmade glass from The Irish Handmade Glass Factory.

Getting out on the river and into the rich Waterford Estuary is a memorable experience here. With Osprey Viking Cruises, you can enjoy afternoon tea accompanied by tales from the river, watch the sunset by the Three Sisters (where the Rivers Suir, Nore and Barrow meet) and admire the 16th-century Waterford Castle standing proudly on Little Island.

Dine local 

Walking around the city, you’ll quickly get the sense that Waterford is not just a place with a fascinating past. The city’s buzzing modern food scene keeps things fresh and exciting with everything from urban coffee favourites to quayside eateries, such as The Granary, where you can sample Waterford’s famous bread roll, the blaa, which has been awarded Protected Geographic Indication status.

Check out the award-winning Grow HQ for lunch. Despite being in the heart of the city, most of their produce is grown in their organic garden only 112 steps away from where it’s enjoyed. Savour modern Irish cooking in Everett’s, set within a gorgeous 15th-century building, or relish an intimate meal oozing local flavours with a Spanish twist in Mara, where many ingredients are locally foraged or organically grown on a nearby farm.  

Looking for something a little lighter in a vibey setting? Union Wine Bar won’t disappoint. With carefully selected wines, enjoy light bar snacks including a fresh baguette from the local Seagull Bakery or Kilmore Quay crab cakes. 

For a food experience to remember, take off on the six-hour Mountain Splendour Taste Tour into the exceptional surroundings of Waterford’s wild Comeragh and Knockmealdown Mountains. Led by local guide Jonny Landers, the tour includes visits to some of Waterford’s best local producers and farms, as well as a spot of foraging.  

A half-hour drive from Waterford city, you’ll find the esteemed Waterford Castle, which was home to the Fitzgerald family for over 800 years. Set on a private island, it’s an elegant location for a long and lazy Afternoon Tea.

On the outskirts 

One of the great things about Waterford is that in what seems like minutes, you can be immersed in the idyllic County Waterford scenery, making it an excellent base from which to explore the surrounding countryside. A great start to exploring beyond the city is the Waterford SuirValley Railway. From Kilmeaden Station, sit back and relax on a period train restored as part of a community heritage project as you travel across farmlands and the banks of the River Suir on a 12km round trip. 

From the railway, you’ll spot Mount Congreve Gardens – one of the largest private collections of plants in the world, and the perfect place to wander, explore and lose track of time. Let the railway know in advance that you’d like to stop there, and they’ll let you off, but otherwise, the garden can be accessed by bicycle from Waterford.

Coast and country 

One of the highlights of any visit to Waterford is the Waterford Greenway, a 46km off-road cycling and walking trail that runs along a former railway line through some of the county’s most spectacular scenery and out to the super-charming seaside town of Dungarvan. There are quiet rest stops at Kilmacthomas and Kilmeaden, as well as Norman castles, a Viking settlement and three viaducts.

Keen cyclists can cover the distance in a day, but making it a two-day trip ensures you don’t miss a thing. Bikes can be rented from Waterford Greenway Bike Hire. 

Next up, take a trip to the seaside. The village of Dunmore East is just a 20-minute car journey from Waterford city. Laze over a seafood lunch at The Strand, before following the scenic Dunmore East Coastal Walk. A further 20 minutes in your EV from Dunmore East, you’ll reach the town of Tramore on the Copper Coast – a UNESCO Global Geopark. Enjoy coastal views on the Doneraile Walk or the tranquillity of the Lafcadio Hearn Japanese Gardens before refuelling with a delicious lunch in a Victorian townhouse at Beach House. 

What are you waiting for? It’s time to wander through Waterford.

Getting around 

The drive from Dublin to Waterford takes 2 hours. There are around a dozen or so EV charge point stations in Waterford city, with a couple at the main train station and more in the city centre itself. TFI Bikes for use in Waterford city are available to hire from 14 locations throughout the city and are charged by the hour. 

Accommodation 

Head to the Granville Hotel in Waterford city for a stay on the waterfront with an award-winning breakfast serving traditional Waterford Blaa. Looking for something wilder? Soak up the sea air with a stay in Avon Lodge B&B in the village of Dunmore East. For all-out luxury, treat yourself to an exquisite stay in the five-star Cliff House Hotel in the charming fishing village of Ardmore.

Staying longer 

Wexford town is just an hour away by car and is the perfect place to base yourself to explore County Wexford. Discover attractions such as the Wexford Opera House, the National 1789 Rebellion Centre in Enniscorthy and Hook Head Lighthouse on Hook Peninsula. It's the perfect way to continue your exploration of Ireland’s Ancient East. 

EV car hire providers

· Hertz – Pick up branches: Dublin Airport, Dublin city.

· Avis – Pick up branches: Dublin Airport, Dublin city centre north, Dublin city centre south.

· UFODrive – Pick up branches: Dublin city.

EV charge point maps

· Zap-Map

· ESB Ireland

· PlugShare