Autumn in Dublin & Ireland's Ancient East
Part city break, part country retreat, autumnal adventures around Dublin and the historic hills of Ireland’s Ancient East work on many levels. Dublin buzzes with trad music pubs and seasonal festivities like the Dublin Theatre Festival, medieval Kilkenny serves up a harvest time feast, Kildare wows with world-class attractions and stays, and Meath’s ancient monuments astound in soft fall light. Oh, and the entire region is draped in otherworldly mischief and magic as spooky season arrives – this is the home of Halloween, after all. So, from the cobbled lanes of Temple Bar to the mythical plains of the Boyne Valley, it’s time to level up your seasonal getaway.
Day 1 – Dublin
Morning:
Start in one of the world’s great cities – Dublin. Framed by the Dublin Mountains on one side and Dublin Bay on the other, this super-friendly spot offers autumn activities for city slickers and outdoorsy-types alike. See the legendary Book of Kells on the postcard-perfect Trinity College campus (which shone on screen in Normal People), take in masterworks by Caravaggio and Picasso at the National Gallery of Ireland, and gaze in awe at the 1,000-year-old Christ Church Cathedral. For trad-meets-modern eats and trendy third-wave coffee shops to fuel your explorations, stop by the cool neighbourhoods of Smithfield and Stoneybatter.
Afternoon:
Fiery reds, deep oranges, bright yellows – Dublin’s foliage pops around the city in autumn. Take in the seasonal colours in city centre gems, such as St Stephen’s Green and Merrion Square Park, the latter of which is home to the must-snap Oscar Wilde Monument. Love the genius Irish wit? Don’t miss Oscariana – A Wilde Festival in October, which celebrates the flamboyant life, literature and legacy of the man. For a proper escape into nature, walk or cycle around the Phoenix Park, one of the largest public parks in any European capital city, and make sure to see the herd of wild deer that roam here. Hit the Dublin Coastal Trail and stop off in charming seaside towns and villages, including Howth and Dalkey. For lunch and some refreshments, look no further than the Guinness Storehouse, where you can delve into the history of Ireland’s world-famous beer before savouring a pint of “the black stuff” in the rooftop Gravity Bar. If Irish whiskey is your preferred tipple, Dublin’s Golden Triangle is nearby, so called for its array of historic distilleries.
Around Halloween, Dublin revels in spooktacular events, from the literary Bram Stoker Festival to the theatrical Ghostbus Tour. Eerie Kilmainham Gaol is also a must-visit at this time of year. Outside the city in County Dublin, captivating events abound, such as the Festival of Fire at Malahide Castle and sumptuous autumn and Samhain dining clubs at Whitestown House Estate.
Evening:
The fun doesn’t stop when the sun goes down in Dublin. Catch a world-class show at the Dublin Theatre Festival in September and October, or settle into a cosy snug for a traditional music session in the bustling Temple Bar district. For dinner, indulge in Michelin-starred magnificence at Chapter One, where the Irish coffee is made in the dining room before your eyes in an experience to remember. Or join the queue outside Bambino for the buzziest slice of pizza in the city. Overnight amid five-star luxury at The Westbury or the chic surrounds of The Dean.
Day 2 – County Kilkenny
Morning:
Hire a car in Dublin from providers such as Hertz or Enterprise, and make the 90-minute drive south to the “Marble City” of Kilkenny. First, uncover historic wonders on the Medieval Mile, a discovery trail that runs through the centre of the city, from the 13th-century St Canice’s Cathedral to the Anglo-Norman fortress of Kilkenny Castle. Don’t miss the Red Book of Ossory in the cathedral. The 700-year-old Latin manuscript has recently gone on public display for the first time, and it contains the earliest known reference to whiskey distilling. Up the road at the Smithwick’s Experience, you can discover the story of Ireland’s most famous red ale.
Afternoon:
Autumn is all about harvest celebrations in Ireland, and nowhere puts on more of a feast than the Savour Kilkenny food festival in October. The 100-stall market is a foodie haven, offering everything from local brewers and live cooking demos from top chefs to tasty street food and artisanal producers. The city is a Halloween hotspot, too. Walking along the cobbled lanes and under stone archways feels like stepping into a gothic movie masterpiece. For proper chills, learn about the infamous Kilkenny Witch Trials of 1324 at Kilkenny’s Toil & Trouble Festival. Or journey outside the city centre to Dunmore Cave, a series of subterranean limestone chambers referred to in Irish history as one of the darkest places in Ireland.
Too frightening? Trade in the scares for sport at Mount Juliet Golf Club, a Jack Nicklaus Signature Designed Parkland loved by Tiger Woods. Kilkenny is also a hurling stronghold, and you can delve into the history and heritage of the native Gaelic game on the Kilkenny Way Hurling Experience. After the two-hour tour, you’ll be up to speed on the fastest field game in the world.
Evening:
After dark, join Kilkenny Ghost Tours on a journey (with a witches hat and cape on, plus a lantern in hand) through the most haunted sites in the city, including St Mary’s Church and graveyard, Black Abbey and Chapel Lane, where ghostly apparitions and the screams of the Banshee ensure a spine-tingling experience. For elegant fine dining, try Campagne, where monkfish, duck and clotted cream tart are top of the seasonal menu. Cosy pubs glow in the autumn dusk around the city. Go to Lanigan’s for nightly live music, Biddy Early’s for top cocktails, or sink into a snug by the open turf fire in The Dylan Whisky Bar. Stay in the refined, 18th-century Butler House, or dial up the luxury on the 170-acre Lyrath Estate, which comes complete with scenic lakes, gardens and woodlands that are ideal for autumnal adventures.
Day 3 - County Kildare
Morning:
From Kilkenny, it’s just an hour’s drive north to “The Thoroughbred County” – Kildare. As the nickname suggests, this is the heart of Ireland’s world-class horseracing community. Hence, a visit to the Irish National Stud & Gardens is a must. Check out the Japanese Gardens while here; they’re considered the finest of their kind in Europe, and stun with bright fall colours. In nearby Kildare town, stop by St Brigid’s Cathedral to uncover the backstory of one of Ireland’s patron saints – St Brigid, who first built a church here way back in 480 AD. Tours run until the end of September. Lullymore Heritage & Discovery Park is close by, too, situated scenically on a mineral island in the Bog of Allen. This is Ireland’s largest peatland area, and a nature lover’s dream. Look out for pine martens and badgers on forest walks, as well as frogs, birds and an array of flora on the biodiversity trail. For a longer escape into nature, walk or cycle the Royal Canal Greenway, a 130km flat towpath that meanders past quaint rural villages and canal locks, from Kildare’s lively university town of Maynooth to County Longford. Or take to the water on an idyllic canal barge trip.
Afternoon:
Choices abound in the afternoon. Love a bit of retail therapy? Then you HAVE to go to Kildare Village to shop the season’s new arrivals. This designer outlet has more than 100 high-street brands and luxury boutiques. A wide array of cafés and eateries make it the perfect place to get lunch as well. If you’d prefer to discover Ireland’s oldest and largest Palladian-style house, then Castletown House awaits. The expansive demesne is home to parkland and river walks, which charm with autumn foliage and dazzle with striking landmarks, including a gate lodge, obelisk and the strangely corkscrew-shaped Wonderful Barn. As you might have gathered, County Kildare wows with big attractions. If visiting around Halloween, scare yourself silly at Clonfert Farm’s Haunted Harvest Festival, which features one of Ireland’s best pumpkin patches. Their Barn Farm Shop is also stocked with sustainably sourced harvest time goodies.
Evening:
Pamper yourself at The K Club, host of the 2006 Ryder Cup, where world-class golf, a Michelin-starred restaurant and a tranquil spa are calling. One can also enjoy horse riding, archery and clay pigeon shooting on the lush autumnal grounds. Or feel like royalty at Kilkea Castle, where falconry, fly-fishing and an Irish Wolfhound experience are all part of an unforgettable stay. On a night out, dine in local favourite Silken Thomas, where roast Irish beef and beer-battered fillet of fresh fish are top of a hearty menu. Clancy’s pub in Athy has various nooks and crannies you can retreat to on a cool autumn eve, and there’s usually a trad music session going on in the corner!
Day 4 – County Meath
Morning:
Just a short hop across the county border is County Meath. Some of Ireland’s oldest and most cherished heritage sites lie here. Head straight for the historic Boyne Valley, where many of the finest landmarks dot the lush landscape. Visit Brú na Bóinne, a UNESCO World Heritage Site made up of the Neolithic monuments of Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. Newgrange – older than both the Pyramids of Giza and Stonehenge – is arguably the standout landmark. Explore the passage tomb that fills with sunlight on 21 December, the shortest day of the year, and run your hands over the mesmerising megalithic art that covers the ancient stones. Nearby Slane Castle is something of a rock star among Irish castles, having provided the backdrop for epic concerts over the decades by stars such as The Rolling Stones, Oasis and Harry Styles. At the on-site Slane Distillery, tours start with a warming Irish coffee and end with a distillery-exclusive batch strength tasting. Continue to one of the most sacred places in Irish myth and folklore – the Hill of Tara. The circular mounds atop the hill date back to the Bronze Age, and have played a central role in the island’s history through the millennia. This is where Ireland’s high kings were crowned, no less. Touching the inauguration stone in the middle of the monument is an Ireland WOW moment you won’t forget.
Afternoon:
Stop for lunch in the riverside town of Trim, before taking in Trim Castle – the largest Anglo-Norman fortress in Ireland. This is where the Hollywood blockbuster, Braveheart, was filmed. The huge 20-sided tower was impregnable in its medieval heyday, but you can explore it on a self-guided tour.
The ancient Celtic harvest festival of Samhain was first celebrated in Meath thousands of years ago, atop the Hill of Ward, and traditions that began then have been carried down through the centuries and spread around the world, becoming our modern-day Halloween. So it should come as no surprise that the county puts on some of Ireland’s most enthralling Halloween events. Púca Festival is the biggest of the lot. The extravaganza takes its name from the mischievous, shape-shifting spirit from ancient Irish folklore, so you know shenanigans await. This year sees an eclectic array of events, including a DJ set by Groove Armada, a live podcast by Blindboy, comedy sets, live music and more. This is all alongside spookier happenings like the Púca Samhain Banquet and the bone-chilling Púca Procession Parade. The Spirits of Meath Halloween Festival promises more family-friendly fun, including Pooka Spooka at Causey Farm and the Tricky Trail at Emerald Park, Ireland’s only combined theme park and zoo.
Evening:
Overnight at the elegant Bellinter House, a grand country house hotel and spa, where a warm welcome and superior hospitality are guaranteed. Dine in the hotel’s 2AA Rosette award-winning restaurant, which sources seasonal produce locally. A lively night out awaits in nearby Navan. The Central is one of the most happening spots in town, with various bars and terraces where you can toast to a well-spent autumn trip.
If you have more time
To extend your stay in Ireland’s Ancient East, explore some of the region’s coastal counties, from Waterford and Wexford to Wicklow. In County Waterford, drive the rugged Copper Coast or cycle the 46km-long Waterford Greenway, before taking in the Viking treasures of Waterford city – Ireland’s oldest city. Mount Congreve Gardens also mesmerises with its vivid foliage at this time of year. Their Poison & Petals tour at dusk this Halloween is sure to enchant.
Up the coast in County Wexford, fresh autumnal beach strolls (or swims) await on many of the region’s finest beaches, such as Curracloe, which wowed on the silver screen in both Saving Private Ryan and Brooklyn. In October, Wexford Festival Opera promises exhilarating performances centred around the theme of Myths & Legends. History abounds here, too, from the 800-year-old Hook Lighthouse – the oldest operational lighthouse in the world – to the Gothic Revival grandeur of Johnstown Castle, which is particularly striking during this season.
Further on in County Wicklow, nicknamed “The Garden County” for its natural beauty, Powerscourt Estate is a one-stop shop with a magnificent house, café, gardens, golf club and distillery all on the grounds. The waterfall here – Ireland’s highest – is awe-inspiring around this time, set against the bronzed and golden landscape. Nearby Glendalough also dazzles in autumn, as the glacial valley erupts with kaleidoscopic colour that’s a joy to uncover on woodland and mountainous trails. Foodies, enjoy a wine tour like no other at Wicklow Way Wines, where uniquely Irish berry wines will tantalise your taste buds. Killruddery House embraces the season in style with Autumn Supper Clubs, an Annual Apple Pressing Day and a Harvest Wreath Making Workshop. Wherever you roam, it’s a season of bountiful delights in Dublin and Ireland’s Ancient East.